Head Yokes
Different from neck yokes, the head yoke must be shaped very carefully to fit the head and horns of the oxen. As the oxen grow, a new yoke must be made, and because each team's head and horns have a different shape, once a yoke is fitted to a specific team, it cannot be used on another team of oxen.
In the days when oxen were common, every community had a skilled yoke maker that would travel from farm to farm and build yokes as they were needed.The yoke maker would arrive at a farm in the early morning, carrying his tools with him. He would work all day, squaring a log with an axe and shaping it with a drawknife and chisel. He would take great care to ensure that the yoke fitted perfectly, trying it on the team several times before he would be satisfied. When he was finished he would be paid a dollar for his work, and then he would pack up and leave for home.
Among the many variations of head yokes made, two distinct styles were predominate; the French style and the German style. The French style was wider and flatter and more ornate, resting more on the neck and reported to be easier to use. The German style was narrower and was strapped closer to the horns. (As to the head yoke versus neck yoke controversy, most Nova Scotians use a head yoke and most Americans use the neck yoke. As both have won the International Ox Pulling competition, the question of which yoke is better is a matter of opinion.)
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- 1. End Slot
- 2. Strap Slot
- 3. Yoke Iron
- 4. Wrap Ring
- 5. Strap Pin
- 6. Backing Chain
- 7. Strap Hole
- 8. Off Side of Yoke
- 9. Beam
- 10. Nigh Side of Yoke
- 11. Horn Boxing
- 12. Bow
- 13. Yoke Pins
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There are a couple of good sources for more information on how to make a head yoke.
One is a 90 minute video made at Ross Farm Museum. It is available from Rural Route Videos. Contact them at www.ruralroutevideos.com
The other is an article in Rural Heritage's winter 2000 edition, page 61. Contact Rural Heritage through our Links page.